“Le Petit Commerce”, Bordeaux France

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The Petit Commerce, a bistro specializing in seafood, reminds me of two points regarding the city of Bordeaux that are not necessarily the first that come to mind when I think of this capital of wine. First, Bordeaux is a port city and as such, has a rich culinary tradition surrounding fish and shellfish.   …

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“La Belle Auberge”, Castegnede, France

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Having grown up reading Elisabeth David, I have always been enchanted with her descriptions of the auberges that populated the countryside of France when she first visited in the 1940’s.  The kind of place that one happens across when driving way off the beaten path, where a lunch of well cooked local fish, meat and …

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“Chez Mattin”, Ciboure France

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Chez Mattin (pronounced “ma chin”) is a Basque bistrot in the fishing port of Ciboure, which lies across harbor from the larger coastal city of Saint-Jean-de-Luz.  With its menu of traditional Basque specialties and its wood beamed dining room, Chez Mattin feels like a portal into a simpler time in dining.  This is good, honest …

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