On the borderline between the 11th and 12 arrondissements and to the east of the Bastille is a neighborhood that is referred to alternately by reference to its main thoroughfare (the Faubourg Saint-Antoine) or its metro stop (Ledru Rollin), or, as often as not, by its market, the Marché d’Aligre. Which makes sense, because the market is the heart of this neighborhood, and like its neighborhood, it is an amalgam of the very traditional and the current, old and young, bursting with the flavors of France, which in modern Paris means also North Africa, the Levant and Asia.
The market consists of one of the oldest covered market in Paris, the Marché Couvert Beauvau, and the street market that spills out of the Beauvau into place and rue d’Aligre , from which the market takes its name. Quite simply put, this market is one of my favorite spots anywhere, and one that I almost never miss when I am in Paris.
Packed with too much stuff for any description to do it justice, it’s a market that demands that you just wade in and experience it. Here are some of my favorites:
Poissonerie “La Marée Beauvau”, inside the covered market, a beautiful selection of fish and shellfish, and they have a single table for 2 where you can enjoy a plate of oysters and a glass of muscadet.
Boulangerie Moisan, an organic bakery facing the market The fennel and raisin rolls are fantastic.
Fromagerie Philippe Langlet inside the covered market offers the most amazing selection of goat cheeses I have ever seen.
Boucherie “Les Provinces” along rue d’Aligre behind the market vegetable stalls; you can select your preferred cut of “bio” beef, lamb or veal butcher case, then pay the 9 euro “droit de cuisson” to have them cook it and serve it to you with salad and roasted potatoes in the small dining room next door.
At the south end of rue d’Aligre, Halal butcher shops predominate, some with rotisseries offering roasted merguez sausages in addition to the more usual roasted chickens.
The surrounding neighborhood is particularly rich in restaurants, bars and wine bars, like the legendary Le Baron Bouge, (formerly Le Baron Rouge…it’s a legal thing, don’t ask) where shoppers meet for a glass of wine and a plate of charcuterie after the market closes. Also not far are Chardenoux, Au Vieux Chene, l’Ebauchoir and Le Siffleur de Ballons, all places that find their way on to my list when friends ask for Paris recommendations.
Marché d’Aligre / Marché Couvert Beauvau
Place d’Aligre and along rue d’Aligre between rue Charenton and Faubourg St.-Antoine