The weather took a cold turn recently here in Orthez; after several weeks of hearing the weatherman say we were having June weather in April, now it has turned March cold. This chilly spell put me in mind to make something simmered and comforting.

So in passing by the butcher’s shop in the market Saturday, I spotted  a really good looking piece of stewing beef called a palette de bœuf, several inches thick and plenty to serve 4 people. The palette is roughly the equivalent of a blade roast, a bone-in cut cut from the shoulder. It is a piece that definitely needs slow, long cooking; it has plenty of collagen and fat so that it will stay rich and moist as it cooks, and like many of the so-called “lesser cuts” of beef, it is full of flavor.

The basic method of this recipe (marinate/sear/”singer” with flour/braise/finish sauce) can be used with success with many types of stewing meat and with many variations.    Feel free to experiment with ingredients you have on hand. You may discover your new signature dish!

Note the amount of beef used may seem like a lot but remember that during 1) this is bone in weight and 2) slow cooking, the meat shrinks and 3) hey, leftovers!

Tiny violet artichokes are one of the joys of late spring.  The pale green new leaves are tender enough to eat whole, especially if slowly braised.  Pairing them with rich, meaty pork cheeks simmered in Normandy apple cider, is a sure winner; the region of Normandy is known for pork, apples and artichokes so it is a natural pairing,  This recipe is short on specifics because making a good stew doesn’t require specifics, you just follow your nose.

PORK CHEEKS BRAISED IN CIDER WITH VIOLET ARTICHOKE

1. The day before, marinate the pork cheeks with Normandy apple cider to just cover and a splash of apple cider vinegar.  Add carrots, onions and garlic, peeled and cut in medium dice. Add a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, a few peppercorns and a clove or two.  Cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. Trim the artichokes, leaving only the inner, light green leaves. If the artichokes are small, it is not necessary to remove the inner choke. As the artichokes are trimmed, put them into water acidified with vinegar or lemon juice to keep them from browning.
   
3. In a heavy, lidded dutch oven, sear off the artichokes in a little vegetable oil and butter until they are nicely colored on all sides and starting to get tender in the stem.  The leaves will still be tough. Season with salt and pepper, then remove and set aside.
   
4. Drain the pork cheeks, separating out the cheeks, the marinade vegetables and the marinade liquid.
5. Season the cheeks with salt and pepper, then coat lightly with flour. Sear off the cheeks in the same dutch oven with fresh oil and butter until nicely colored on all sides. Remove the cheeks and drain most of the oil, then add the veggies and sweat for several minutes until they start to soften.  Return the cheeks to the pan. De-glaze with the marinade, adding more cider as needed for the liquid to just cover the meat and veggies (or use chicken or pork stock to top up the liquid if you have it).
6. Bring to a boil, skim off any foam that forms, then reduce the heat to the slowest simmer.  Cover and continue to cook on very low heat or in a 250 degree oven.  Cook until the pork cheeks are very tender, 2-3 hours.
7. If you like, add a little heavy cream or crème fraîche for richness (not strictly necessary but delicious!). Season the stew with salt and pepper, then add the seared artichokes and continue to simmer until they are tender.  Correct the seasoning as needed, then finish the sauce by stirring in a knob of cold butter off the heat and stirring until fully incorporated.
   
8. Enjoy!  I served this with rustic potato puree (basically boiled potatoes crushed with salt, pepper, cold butter and a splash of heavy cream) but buttered egg noodles would be great also.
   

Also new this week at Le Pichet, something slow simmered to warm your bones, just added to the dinner menu:

Boneless beef shank simmered with red wine, carrots and Cipollini onions, with hand-cut egg noodles, beurre fondu and chives