Yes, I know, it’s almost Christmas and oyster season started long ago.  However, I would argue that the rule about only eating oysters in months with an “r” tells you when you CAN eat oysters, not when oysters are at their best.  Plus, these are real beauties and were really delicious with a glass of white wine from Olivier Pithon, who makes organic / biodynamic wines in the Côtes Catalanes. This was his cuvée Laïs 2014*.

For my money, oysters are at their best in the cold winter months of December, January and February (allowing for regional variation, of course) after they have had a chance to become plump and firm.  And yes, again, I know that many people now eat oysters the year round.  For me, seasonal eating and seasonal anticipation is a sort of ritual that helps me feel and celebrate that changing seasons.  Oysters, it must be winter.  Asparagus, its spring.  Vine-ripe tomatoes, summer.  Quince, late fall. Looking forward to these seasonal treats, when they are at their best, is part of their special pleasure.

*If you are thinking “Really, a 10 year old white wine?”, I can only say “Absolutely”!  When we visited Domaine Olivier Pithon in the Roussillon town of Calce last April, we learned that Olivier believes his robust whites can age for up to 20 years. He has a cellar full of old bottles to prove it, and he lets them go for prices that are pretty darn reasonable (probably less so in wine shops!).  I would note that we tried a bottle of the same wine from 2022, which was excellent, but to0 young and muscular to pair with oysters.