Tiny violet artichokes are one of the joys of late spring.  The pale green new leaves are tender enough to eat whole, especially if slowly braised.  Pairing them with rich, meaty pork cheeks simmered in Normandy apple cider, is a sure winner; the region of Normandy is known for pork, apples and artichokes so it is a natural pairing,  This recipe is short on specifics because making a good stew doesn’t require specifics, you just follow your nose.

PORK CHEEKS BRAISED IN CIDER WITH VIOLET ARTICHOKE

1. The day before, marinate the pork cheeks with Normandy apple cider to just cover and a splash of apple cider vinegar.  Add carrots, onions and garlic, peeled and cut in medium dice. Add a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, a few peppercorns and a clove or two.  Cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. Trim the artichokes, leaving only the inner, light green leaves. If the artichokes are small, it is not necessary to remove the inner choke. As the artichokes are trimmed, put them into water acidified with vinegar or lemon juice to keep them from browning.
   
3. In a heavy, lidded dutch oven, sear off the artichokes in a little vegetable oil and butter until they are nicely colored on all sides and starting to get tender in the stem.  The leaves will still be tough. Season with salt and pepper, then remove and set aside.
   
4. Drain the pork cheeks, separating out the cheeks, the marinade vegetables and the marinade liquid.
5. Season the cheeks with salt and pepper, then coat lightly with flour. Sear off the cheeks in the same dutch oven with fresh oil and butter until nicely colored on all sides. Remove the cheeks and drain most of the oil, then add the veggies and sweat for several minutes until they start to soften.  Return the cheeks to the pan. De-glaze with the marinade, adding more cider as needed for the liquid to just cover the meat and veggies (or use chicken or pork stock to top up the liquid if you have it).
6. Bring to a boil, skim off any foam that forms, then reduce the heat to the slowest simmer.  Cover and continue to cook on very low heat or in a 250 degree oven.  Cook until the pork cheeks are very tender, 2-3 hours.
7. If you like, add a little heavy cream or crème fraîche for richness (not strictly necessary but delicious!). Season the stew with salt and pepper, then add the seared artichokes and continue to simmer until they are tender.  Correct the seasoning as needed, then finish the sauce by stirring in a knob of cold butter off the heat and stirring until fully incorporated.
   
8. Enjoy!  I served this with rustic potato puree (basically boiled potatoes crushed with salt, pepper, cold butter and a splash of heavy cream) but buttered egg noodles would be great also.
   

The winter menu at Cafe Presse is up and running as of 9a.m. this morning. The entire staff of Cafe Presse gathered this morning before service started (by the way, that’s pretty early for residents of Capitol Hill) to see, ask questions about and taste all the new winter dishes.  I sent the final text of our web guy this morning so don’t be surprised if it takes a day or so to get the menus on the Cafe Presse website up to date.  In the mean time, you can always drop by to check out all the new items in person.

Just a reminder as well that the first ever Cafe Presse Corner Table Dinner will take place next Tuesday, January 31, 2012.  This fixed price dinner, which celebrates the simple pleasure of gathering around the table with friends, will feature 3 courses from the new menu.  The Corner Table will meet every season  on the first Tuesday after the release of a new menu at Cafe Presse.  We hope you can join us there.

Here are a few photos to get you in the mood:

What:  Family-style dinner at Cafe Presse
When:  Tuesday January 31, 2012  6:30pm
Where:  The back room at Cafe Presse

This January, Cafe Presse is happy to debut a new quarterly event that we call the Cafe Presse Corner Table.  The Corner Table is a  fixed price dinner designed to celebrate the changing season and the conviviality of the table.  The meal will include 3 courses from Cafe Presse’s seasonal menu presented in the traditional style that one might be served if invited to the home of a French family. The meal will also include French country wines selected by wine manager Marcel Boulanger.  It’s not about connoisseurship or solemn swirling and sniffing.  Instead, come celebrate the best that the season has to offer and the simple pleasure of gathering together with good things to eat and drink.  The cost is $23 per person for food only, or $38 including wine.  We hope you can join us.

Family-style meal begins at 6:30pm…no late arrivals please.
From 6pm to 6:30pm please join us for a no host aperitif.

January 31, 2012 Menu

Frisée, betterave, pecans, échalotes    
“Salad of beets, curly endive, pickled shallots, and pecans with molasses vinaigrette”

Joues de porc braisées au vin blanc et sa polenta aux châtaigne
“Carlton pork cheeks braised in white wine, with golden raisins and escarole, served with chestnut  creamy polenta”

For further information or reservations, please call Café Presse at 206.709.7674.