Abri Soba, Paris 10eme
I recently received this question from a reader named Brian:
“Our son and his girlfriend will be in Paris for 3 nights this spring. They both enjoy great, shareable meals at memorable restaurants with good cocktails, and breakfast places with great coffee. Any recommendations for a couple in their 20’s?”
First off, thanks for this question and for following my blog, Brian. Glad to hear that you still enjoy Le Pichet. If anyone else has questions I can answer, please feel free to leave them as a comment on one of my posts, I will get back to you as soon as practical.
What in the world do people in their 20’s want these days? That is a question that strays into thoughts about mortality and aging in this world. Deep sign… Food, cooking and dining are all so wrapped up in trend and fashion that recommending a restaurant to a 20 year old is sort of like talking about music that I loved in my youth to a nephew or niece. They just give you a slightly sad look. I eat out in Paris as often I can and try to keep up on restaurant news and reviews. But, at the risk of sounding old, many of the rave reviews I have read recently concern restaurants that I find completely unappealing. Such is life.
At the same time, making restaurant recommendations is always tricky, as what a person enjoys in a dining experience is so, well, personal. Everyone has different expectations. However, since you asked, I will do my best to hazard a few suggestions.
Source: A good place to start would be the French TV show called “Très Très Bon”, which is all about what’s new in the Paris culinary scene. It features not only restaurants but street food, coffee roasters, micro breweries and distilleries, wine bars, cocktail bars, caves, boulangeries and patisseries, pretty much anything that involves eating and drinking. The attitude leans decidedly young but even I find many of the places featured interesting. We watch on a channel called Paris Premier but it has a very good website, with a food map, clips from the show and even an app.
Arrondissement: In recent visits to Paris, I have really enjoyed spending time in the 10th arrondissement, which has an energy that reminds me of Belleville 20 years ago. Formally avoided as that kinda ugly area that surrounds most train stations (the 10th is home to both the Gare de Nord and the Gare de l’est), the 10th is now loaded with bars, cafes, restaurants, organic stores, wine bars, coffee roasters, street food places, it even is home to le Passage Brady, a kind of mini Indian district. It still feels a bit scruffy, which helps to keep out the chain stores that are the surest sign of gentrification.
Abri Soba: One of the restaurants we really enjoyed in the 10th, this tiny place is run by a chef who’s first restaurant had one Michelin star. He closed that place to focus on more traditional Japanese food, notably handmade soba noodles. But there is also an interesting selection of izikaya-style dishes and sashimi. No reservations, arrive 10 minutes before opening or figure at least a 30 minute wait.
Try a bouillon: I think that it is fair to say that one of the most recognizable trends in Paris dining in the last 5 years is the revival of the Bouillon, working class restaurants, many of which date fromthe early 1900s, and are sort of a cross between a brasserie and a cafeteria. The combo of well prepared traditional food served without fuss and prices that are borderline philanthropic, have been rediscovered by euro-conscious Parisians who still want to dine well. Think œufs mayo, leeks vinaigrette, veal blanquette, gratin of macaroni…almost like eating in a museum of French culinary arts! My favorite bouillon is Bouillon Racines, but to be fair, it is significantly more expensive than the classics of the genre like Bouillon Chartier or newcomers like Bouillon Pigalle. Warning, many traditional bouillons dont take reservations, and, once you make it to the front of the queue, you are often sat at a table with other guests. But then, that is part of the fun.
Classy cocktails: I am not a cocktail person, so I dont have a favorite cocktail bar in Paris. However, almost every high end restaurant in Paris (and many that are less high end) now has a fairly well developed cocktail program. And since formal dining is an essential part of the Paris culinary experience, why not blow the budget at least once? One of my favorite splurges is Restaurant Prunier. The room is an art deco dream classified historical landmark, the chef is one of the icons of modern French culinary arts, the food is impeccably prepared and seafood focused and, as high end Paris dining goes, it is not insanely expensive. Get dressed up and dine like an aristo!
Coffee and breakfast: Coffee is not one of the things that the French do extremely well. In fact, most of the French people I know will say that there is better coffee in Italy than in France. I had the best coffee I have ever tasted in Vienna. That having been said, boutique coffee roasters are an up and coming thing is Paris. Check out “Tres Tres Bon” above for recommendations. As to a breakfast with good coffee, I can recommend l’Atelier des Sœurs on the lovely little place Franz Lizst in the 10th. Or, try L’Endoit in the Batignolles neighborhood in the 17th. I love their soft boiled eggs with toast soldiers. However, I am not sure that I would make a trip to try either of these places, as there are likely good options close to where you are staying. Ask someone at your hotel what their favorite place is for breakfast. Or, if not in a hotel, ask the bartender at a bar near where you are staying. A good friend says that bartenders and hairdressers always know the best places.